Installing a Birthing Bath

professionally installed birthing pool

There is no mystery to installing a birthing bath.  In may ways they are simpler than domestic baths because our baths are one-piece Single -Surface baths.  Midwives designed the bath from the top down, and plumbers designed it from the bottom up!

Usually, the bath arrives into a near-finished room.  Plumbing should already been in place behind an IPS panel.  All that should be visible is a small piece of 40mm solvent weld pipe protruding from the very bottom of the IPS (or no more than 25mm from the floor).  Taps are in place by this stage too.

In terms of taps, we don’t recommend any, but have a short guide sheet (pdf).  We know taps from the Ideal Bluebook range are commonly used.  For example, one Trust repeatedly favoured using two of the following so that there was a double supply of mixed supply hot water.  The reason being that 22mm taps that are HTM compliant are very difficult to source and a 15mm tap would take too long to fill the bath.  http://www.idealspec.co.uk/catalogue/bluebook/brassware/contract/contour-21/contour-21-single-control-mixer-and-15-23cm-spout_p351.html

Rada Sensor taps are also very popular.

  Looking in through the hatch, the finished pipe work should look like this.  The valve should be as close to the hatch door as possible so that the midwives are not having to reach right in under the bath.  The valve is supplied with the bath.  The pipe either side of the valve must be clamped to support the valve and to stop the pipework being twisted by the constant use of the valve.

Anyway, first things first.  This is a 2-3 person job – you’ll see why.  When we install a bath, we put down lots of padding and tip the bath on its side onto the padding.  This way, we can, using a long level or straight edge, adjust the feet to match the base of the pool.  The bath is designed to sit both on the basal rim of the bath and on the feet.  This is why our baths are so good at spreading the load.  If you don’t think you can put the pool on its side without scratching it, don’t – the warranty doesn’t cover it.

It is also easier to silicone in place the waste and, if ordered, the LED lights. The latter are fitted in the same way as a waste – a backnut and a lot of silicone!  Once all that’s done, carefully turn the bath back onto its base.

Offer up the end of the bath to the IPS.  This way, you’ll see where the waste pipe will come through the end of the bath.  mark and drill it out.

First to go on the tail of the waste is an elbow and the waterless trap.  The Hepworth vO is a good choice but other versions are now available.  Do  not use a U-bend or shower trap.  They hold water which will just become a source of infection issues.

ideal pipe bends
Avoid sudden 90 degree corners in the pipe run.

 

 

Next comes the valve and the remaining piperun to join on to the piece of 40mm pipe protruding through the base of the IPS (and through the end of the bath you’ve just drilled!).  Don’t glue the pipework before you’ve tried it all in place.  You may want to mark where the clamps either side of the valve are to go.  It is easier to pull the bath back, drill and then put it in place.  Finish the pipework.

Screw the bath to the IPS and, through flanges on the base in the hatch area, to the floor.  Silicone round.

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